Thursday, August 7, 2014

Remembering Hiroshima

He: “You saw nothing in Hiroshima. Nothing.”
She: “I saw everything. I saw the hospital – I’m sure of it. The hospital in Hiroshima exists. How could I not have seen it?”
He: “You didn’t see the hospital in Hiroshima. You saw nothing in Hiroshima.”      
She: “Four times at the museum in Hiroshima. People walk around, lost in thought, among the photographs, the reconstructions, for lack of anything else. The photographs, the reconstructions, for lack of anything else. The explanations, for lack of anything else.”

(from Alain Resnais’ 1959 film Hiroshima Mon Amour.)

Trying to put a title to my post, “Remembering Hiroshima” was a reflexive response. Then I realized it posed an ethical challenge in that I couldn’t possibly remember Hiroshima, similar to the characters in the film. In my case of course the event itself happened way before my time. What we go by in the absence of memory is memorializing; this has served in modern history to preserve collective memory in the form of historical archives, museums, public education; as exemplified by memorials to suffering under Nazism throughout Europe.

In America, this creates the other challenge, since Hiroshima and Nagasaki are hardly present in public narratives. When they are, they are presented as events that occurred during WWII, not as studies in morality. Part of it is not specific to America but a tradition of WWII narratives in general in the western hemisphere, which clearly define the aggressor and the responder, and consequently acts of violence follow where their perpetrators belong rather than where the acts should belong based on a consistent set of moral standards. The rape of nearly a million German women by the advancing Red Army hardly occupies the same space in public discourse compared to any atrocity committed by the Axis powers.

Hiroshima is an extension of that principle, just at a much more staggering level. Not just because of the numbers and scope committed by one single act. But every time Hiroshima is remembered in the form of an intellectual debate on the necessity of the use of that weapon, humanity takes a step back. Auschwitz, Babi Yar could be out of the realm of debate, but no such inviolability is accorded to Hiroshima. It was a necessary destruction to end the war, and no one talks about it.

Our moral judgments come from our moral position, which interestingly, can shift depending on what narrative we adhere to. Rationalization for Hiroshima and Nagasaki is usually the result of consequentialist thought, which “locates morality in the consequence of the action”1. Destruction of these cities was justified in the “greater good” of limiting further casualties by expediting the end of war. If, on the other hand, we ever find ourselves in harm’s way, our adversary’s world view is not relevant any longer; end does not justify the means any more. At that precise moment we take a position exactly opposite of consequentialism – a deontological philosophy like Kant’s, which “locates morality in the action itself”2.

The irony is that our moral philosophies simply don’t matter to the monumental suffering we inflicted – a suffering beyond death, into sterile lives that somehow trudged along after death. Disfigured, transformed, scarred existences. In the searing images of Shohei Imamura’s “Black Rain” where a man cannot tell his own brother because he is so unrecognizable.

He: “What did Hiroshima mean to you in France?”
She: “The end of the war. I mean completely. Astonishment that they dared do it, and astonishment that they succeeded….”

Monday, March 24, 2014

Close to Life - Impressions from Guatemala (Thanksgiving 2012)


A group of teenagers performed some amazing dance routines on Paseo de la Sexta right across from a bar-restaurant called ‘Saul’. They beautifully worked off of one another; any time one guy was tiring out, another one jumped in, demonstrating a fascinating combination of physical fitness, contortions and an intuition for rhythm. In the beginning they were performing almost in a conversational style – doing bits and pieces, briefly passing verbal cues as to what could be done better or improvised next time around. By the time I had left, walked down the avenue and back up to the same spot, they were more organized performers – this time to Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’ and the crowd had strengthened. These guys were simply having fun.


I thought art and human possibilities were endless, even in Guatemala City where crime, poverty and slip-shod existence define everyday life. The city center is heavily policed; and armed guards have a ubiquitous presence from ordinary business establishments to public parking areas.

My hotel concierge in the Camino Real district recommended a nearby restaurant called Kacao that served local flavors. While I was there, a man came in and he was peddling shawls of different kinds. He stood near the entrance and offered his stuff to every patron that was leaving; he seemed needy, requested a few times, but always smiled and stopped short of pestering.


I made a day trip to the city of Antigua, a UNESCO world heritage site. Time had stopped at this ancient city, in its cobblestoned streets, in its ruins. It has become somewhat of a tourist trap in recent years, as evident from traffic on the motorway just leading up to Antigua. But signs of a rural and traditional living were unmistakable. Many shops were actually extensions of homes.  Many women would sell products while carrying their infants wrapped up and tucked on their backs like backpacks. And at times they would take a break to nurse them; a moment of vulnerability by urban standards was a way of life to them.


Close to the ruins of an old church was an open market place; I was approached by a vendor hawking beads, jewelry, even flutes. I politely refused to buy, he persisted a little bit, but then he gave me the smile of understanding and switched the subject to what I was there for, and pointed me to touristy areas. So I went over to Casa Santo Domingo, part luxury hotel, part ruins; there was a wedding going on, with wedding guests and tourists almost sharing the same space, while some talented musicians played Bach's Air.


Employees at the Westin Camino Real, Guatemala City were wearing name tags that also said “My passion:”; the young woman at the concierge desk for example, had identified Real Madrid as her passion. One restaurant server's read: “Mi passion: mi familia”.

There was an obviousness in the note; yet its poignance made me long for my own 3 1/2 year old.


Two weeks earlier, I had been visiting Kolkata and saw him for the first time in almost 4 months. It was morning, and he was still sleeping as I went inside the mosquito net and stroked and patted him that eventually woke him up. The bewilderment in his eyes has stayed with me since.

Ruins of El Carmen Church, Antigua, Guatemala
Catedral de San Jose, Antigua, Guatemala
Antigua, Guatemala